The cascades at Agua Azul and Misol Ha, Chiapas

In addition to being rich in Mayan cultural heritage, the state of Chiapas is also rich in natural resources and wonders of nature. Up to this point, we had seen crocodiles, howler monkeys, flocks of parrots and toucans all in their natural habitats.  For this portion of our adventures in Chiapas, we headed to El Parque Nacional de Agua Azul (the cascades of Blue Waters National Park) and the Misol Ha waterfalls.

Agua Azul National Park

The cascades known as Las Cascadas de Agua Azul are in a national park located about an hour outside of the town of Palenque, and are one of the most picturesque set of cascades I have ever had the opportunity to see.  Dry season (basically November-April) is the best time to see the cascades, as it is when they are at their most beautiful in terms of color: a surrealistic turquoise blue.  Rain churns up more sediment in the water, so they can look more brownish.  In our case, the conditions were not perfect as it had rained a lot in the previous 48 hours, but the cascades were still incredibly beautiful. 

The added bonus, is that there are a few areas where swimming is allowed.  One is near the bottom of the cascades where the river continues in a more lazy fashion.  The second is higher up, near the top of the tourist section.  Of course, you can hop in and get wet lots of other places, but it is 100% at your own risk.  We opted for a quick swim at the upper portion of the cascades.  It was quite refreshing (and a little chilly for some), and long overdue for this trip!

After our swim, we headed to the obligatory fresh coconut stand for nourishment.  This is a tradition for our trips to Mexico, and there are those in our party (Josh!) who cannot complete a trip without at least one fresh coconut someplace along the way.  Mission Accomplished! 

Cascada de Misol Ha

Continuing with our aquatic theme, after our stop at Agua Azul we took a quick detour to see the waterfalls of Misol Ha.  They are nearly 100 feet tall and their jungle atmosphere make them incredibly beautiful.  If time permits, you can swim at the base of the waterfall.  We didn’t do so, as we wanted to beat the approaching darkness and opted to walk the path behind the waterfalls instead.  The roar of the falling water is impressive.

Even more interesting is a spot behind the waterfall where another water source exits the mount in a smaller set of cascades.  For an extra 10 pesos per person, you are given a flashlight and can walk through a series of unlit caves, sometimes over rocks, sometimes through shallow water, to a larger cavern several rooms back where another subterranean waterfall pours into a large pool.  In that cave, if your flashlight is strong enough, you can see bats resting on the ceiling of the cave, as well as a glittery show of wet smaller stalactite formations.  As you pick your way back over boulders and through the exiting stream, you give thanks that this is “dry season” as I suspect that it may be difficult or impossible to experience the internal waterfall during the times of abundant rainfall.

Yaxchilan & Bonampak, Chiapas

Our next set of destinations were in the Lacondon rainforest, on the border with Guatamala.  The Lacondon rainforest is the largest rainforest in North America, and the second largest in the Americas in general (behind to the Brazilian rainforest).

Yaxchilan

Yaxchilan is located on the Usumacinta river which divides Mexico and Guatemala.  The site is located on a tear-shaped peninsula, which is only reachable by boat as there are no roads leading to the site.  The boats are long narrow canoes powered by an outboard motor.  After balancing out our party so as not to tip our transportation, we commenced a nearly 45 minute ride to the archaeological site.  On the way, we saw several crocodiles sunning themselves on the Guatemaltecan side of the river, as well as numerous howler monkeys in the trees.

Yaxchilan was a powerful city on the river for roughly 400 years, as it was one of several who could control trade up and down the river which runs all the way to the Gulf of Mexico.  The site is divided into three main areas: the Great Plaza, the Grand Acropolis, and the Small Acropolis. 

One of the interesting features we noticed about the structures in this region, different from those encountered on the Merida region, were the roof combs.  This site also retains some beautiful lintels in the structures, and a variety of frescos and mural remnants.

Bonampak

After Yaxchilan, we traveled further into the Lacondon region, to Bonampak.  The archaeological site of Bonampak is administered by the autonomous Lacondon peoples.  It is such that you can near the site, but then park your vehicle, and hire Lacondon transportation to the site.  The natives then also have the opportunity to sell their beautiful wares in the entrance to the site.  They make incredibly beautiful jewelry from the wide variety of seeds that can be found in the rainforest.  Additionally, you can find hand carved figurines and kitchen utensils made of the local mahogany wood, called Caoba.  Given the repression they have suffered over the years, we were happy to provide economic support through our visit.

Bonampak was inhabited as early as 100 AD , and its habitation ran roughly through 600-800 AD. Surprisingly, it is believed that there was an amicable relationship between Bonampak and Yaxchilan, just 12 miles away, as the rulers at one point were brothers-in-law and joined forces in at least one battle. 

What Bonampak is perhaps most well-known for are its lintels and the murals that adorn the interior of Temple 1.  Each visitor has the opportunity to spend up to 3 minutes in each room and no more than 3 people are allowed in a room at a time.  But the wait is definitely worth it!  The site of the murals and the stories they tell are quite impressive.

Palenque, Chiapas

Our first day in the rain-forest we hiked the Palenque archaeological site in the rain and mist.  The Palenque site reached its prominence between 500-800 AD, under the rule of Pakal I and his son, Pakal II.  Due to inbreeding in the ruling class, it is rumored that Pakal had six fingers on each hand and six toes on each foot.  Under the period of rule of father and son, Palenque rose in prominence and fortification.

Quite in contrast to other sites we’ve visited in the past, it was almost magical to wander up and down the hills in the rain, the hills half obscured by the mist.  You really got a feel for what it was like to really live in a rain-forest.  It also provided a mystical atmosphere to the place.

The kids were particularly fascinated by the tomb of the Reina Roja (Red Queen), which you can view on the site.  They had seen a replica in the Anthropology museum of Mexico City which included some of the original contents.  In Palenque, we entered the top of pyramid and walked down a tunnel to find the original sarcophagus.

Palenque also boasts an extraordinary number of original frescoes.  You can climb all over the site with very little restriction and discover them throughout.  Some of the largest ones were in the patio where prisoners were held.  In our explorations, Matthew and I found a small room with a hole in the floor and a canal beneath it.  We presumed this may have been a bathroom facility. 

Probably one of the favorite surprise and delight elements of this stop was that we used the lower entrance instead of the main tourist entrance.  This gave us the opportunity to begin our walk through the rainforest, climbing up through the jungle paths, across bridges, seeing smaller residential structures first before progressing upward to the hills past some of the lower ceremonial edifices and finally culminating in the palaces and temples at the top of the mount.  It was a route much less traveled and also allowed us to truly appreciate the simpler structures on our way up to the “main event”.  It was also an experience more typical of that of the everyday Maya population during the period of time in which Palenque was occupied.

Mexico City - Xochimilco and Coyocan

Xochimilco

Xochimilco is located in the southern part of Mexico City, which was originally part of a large lake.  Here, the Aztecs strategically filled in sections of land to create small islands and floating gardens for their crops, which could be easily accessed through a system of canals. 

Over 60 kilometers of canals remain to this day, and many people come to visit and enjoy a leisurely boat ride on “trajineras” which are powered by boat pilots using poles to propel the crafts, which resemble a cross between a raft and a canoe, through the canal system.  Passengers sit on either side of the craft and a long table runs down the middle, ready for food, drinks, and merriment.  During the ride, you can still see many of the man-made islands, with greenhouses and small homes.  All are accessible purely by water.  Vendors approach in their own boats to sell food, flowers, jewelry, and other wares.  Musicians will happily rope their boat to yours to serenade you on your way.  It is a lovely way to spend an afternoon relaxing and in good company.

Coyocan

 Coyocan is a historical neighborhood in the south of Mexico City where the European elite lived, during colonial times.  The neighborhood retains its historic charm, and today it is known for its wonderful foods and ice creams.

There are also nearby plazas that hark back to the more difficult times of the inquisition.  It is hard to imagine the tragic events that occurred here, when walking the now peaceful and picturesque streets.  The relaxed atmosphere of Coyocan is really a world away from the hustle and bustle which you find in the rest of the mega-city that is Mexico City.

Pyramids of Teotihuacan

Two years ago, we visited the pyramids of Teotihuacan and this year we went on a return visit.  Last time we began at one end of the 3 kilometer site and this time, we began at the other.  We explored the area around the Pyramide de la Luna (Moon Pyramid), the Quetzalpapalotl Palace, and finally the largest pyramid, Pyramide del Sol (Sun Pyramid).  

What is interesting about Teotihuacan is how large and prominent it was.  It was eventually abandoned; some believe it may have been due to a drastic drought where crops withered and died. 

We had an enjoyable hike around the site, which included a climb to the top of the Pyramide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun), the larger of the two pyramids.  It provided a beautiful view of the entire site!

Mexico City - Chapultepec

In the middle of Mexico City, is a huge park known as the lung of Mexico City, Chapultepec.  Chapultepec is the home of many, many fantastic museums as well as the Castillo de Chapultepec.  You can also find a lake, a zoo, and an amusement park within Chapultepec.  Of the many choices of things to do and places to visit, we made it to two: The Anthropology Museum and the Castillo de Chapultepec.

Museo Nacional de Antropologia e Historia

  

The Museo Nacional de Antropologia e Historia is a fantastic history and anthropology museum that resides in a space of over 93,000 square feet of material.  The kids enjoyed a large number of dioramas that depicted the evolution of the hominids throughout the ages, along with the changes in their tools, and the progression of their lifestyle from hunger gatherers to early agricultural techniques.  After that baseline, we explored the ancient peoples and artifacts of the different populations in each region of Mexico.  We got to see replicas of the cave paintings found in Baja California.  We saw replicas of the cliff dwellings found in the desert regions of northern Mexico and the four corners area of the US (Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, and Colorado).  Particular fun was finding the famous Aztec calendar (which may not actually be a calendar), and the giant stone heads created by the ancient Olmec peoples.  We also got a preview of what is yet to come when we visit the Mayan ruins in Chiapas, later this trip, and a review of the Mayan artifacts we learned about on our last trip.  All in all, you could easily spend a week in this museum and still not take everything in.  Half a day was really enough to whet our appitites for a return visit sometime.

Castillo de Chapultepec

The Castillo de Chapultepec is a castle found in the Chapultepec park that was the home of Maximillian and Carlotta.  Maximillian was of the Hapsburg family in what we now know as Austria, and a cousin to Napoleon.  He was put in charge of the colony of New Spain (Mexico).  His wife, Carlotta, was the daughter of a Belgian king.  Located high on a hill, the Castle provides a view of how the designated governors of New Spain clung to their European roots.  The décor is very European, and the furnishings and instruments were directly imported from the home continent.  The gardens are very much like those you’d find in residence of nobility in the homeland.  It is all quite opulent and must have been quite a stark contrast to how the rest of the population lived.  It continues to provide a stark contrast to the other sights in Mexico City we had visited thus far.

Mexico City – Centro Historico

We arrived in Mexico City a few days after Christmas.  The sheer size of the city and its mass of inhabitants is simply mind-boggling.  Traffic patterns are heart stopping for the uninitiated and one way streets change direction seemingly at the whim of the local traffic cops.  That said, we were greeted with a robust police presence, ensuring that safety and well-being of the visitors to the historic sites.  Amidst the throngs of people you find in the city center, you find a treasure trove of history awaiting you.

Cathedral

Our very first stop upon entering the historic city was to visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, right in the middle of the historic center.  Construction of the old church began in the mid-1500s and took over 200 years to reach its completion.  Its gold plated alters reach floor to ceiling, and there are a variety of side alters to greet you. The kids were impressed by the large crucifix at the entry alter, surrounded by a multitude of pilgrims praying, as the body of Jesus was ebony black, and therefore very different from other images of Jesus encountered in the churches we have visited.   It was quite beautiful and striking amidst the gold alters and copious flowers that surrounded it.

Some other things we noticed about the cathedral is its location and its orientation.  The main alter of the cathedral faces north, instead of the traditional easterly direction.  Also, it is built upon the ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor, which was destroyed by the Conquistadores as they took over the native populations.  In fact, there have been several “windows” installed in the front patio of the cathedral that allow you to peek below at some of the remains of Templo Mayor.

Templo Mayor

Directly beside the Cathedral, you can visit the archeological site that pays homage to its predecessor, the Aztec Templo Mayor.  Templo Mayor was built in layers, beginning as a smaller temple, and periodically a larger, grander temple was built on top.  The newest layer of the pyramid is the seventh layer.  Despite the destruction by the conquering Spaniards, and miscellaneous subsequent looters, you have an opportunity to see quite an impressive array of artifacts still remaining in the site.  You find numerous images of Quetzaquatil, the feathered serpent at the various corners of the edifice.  

There are also a variety of statues that stand guard between the layers of the pyramid.  You can see the statue of Calak Mool in the center, where ceremonial sacrifices presumably took place.  You can also find some of the old sewer systems that were built by the ancient Aztec, to support daily life.  In the covered areas of the site, you can also still see sections that retain some of the original paint colors that the pyramids were decorated.  It gives you a taste of what an impressive site it must have been when first seen by the Europeans. 

At the end of the walk through the Archeological zone, you enter a fantastic museum of the site.  It is filled with countless artifacts from the site, depictions and explanations of the various Aztec gods and their role in the society that honored them.  The museum also gives a fantastic account of the technological developments that supported Aztec life, the crops they cultivated, how they cultivated them, the various animals in their environment, and so on.  It provides quite an interdisciplinary experience of the Aztec life around Templo Mayor, and is truly a museum worth visiting.

Palacio del Gobierno

To round out the trifecta of sites worth seeing on this downtown block, is the Palacio del Gobierno.  This was the home of the famous indigenous president Benito Juarez, and it is where the current executive branch of the Mexican government operates.  Despite the fact that the President of Mexico’s offices are here, it is open to the public, so long as you leave your government-issued ID at the entry.  So with passports turned in, we went inside to explore the beautiful old building.  You can visit the living quarters of Benito Juarez, and view many of his family’s personal artifacts. 

The Palacio del Gobierno is also the home of a large collection of beautiful murals by Diego Rivera. You can take your time exploring the wide variety historical of themes and political criticisms that were included in the artistic renditions.  It is quite a fantastic experience.  You can find murals about the lives of the ancient indigenous peoples, and the knowledge and learnings they shared with Cortez.  You also see a rendition of the first Meztiso, a baby with green eyes carried on the back of the Malinche, a young indigenous girl who was the translator for Hernan Cortez.  This is considered to have been the first “Mexican” as we know them today.  You can also find the images of the inquisition, the independence movement, and the revolution.  Many battles and much bloodshed occurred on the way to becoming the Mexico of today, and it is all expressed in the murals by Rivera.