Yaxchilan & Bonampak, Chiapas

Our next set of destinations were in the Lacondon rainforest, on the border with Guatamala.  The Lacondon rainforest is the largest rainforest in North America, and the second largest in the Americas in general (behind to the Brazilian rainforest).

Yaxchilan

Yaxchilan is located on the Usumacinta river which divides Mexico and Guatemala.  The site is located on a tear-shaped peninsula, which is only reachable by boat as there are no roads leading to the site.  The boats are long narrow canoes powered by an outboard motor.  After balancing out our party so as not to tip our transportation, we commenced a nearly 45 minute ride to the archaeological site.  On the way, we saw several crocodiles sunning themselves on the Guatemaltecan side of the river, as well as numerous howler monkeys in the trees.

Yaxchilan was a powerful city on the river for roughly 400 years, as it was one of several who could control trade up and down the river which runs all the way to the Gulf of Mexico.  The site is divided into three main areas: the Great Plaza, the Grand Acropolis, and the Small Acropolis. 

One of the interesting features we noticed about the structures in this region, different from those encountered on the Merida region, were the roof combs.  This site also retains some beautiful lintels in the structures, and a variety of frescos and mural remnants.

Bonampak

After Yaxchilan, we traveled further into the Lacondon region, to Bonampak.  The archaeological site of Bonampak is administered by the autonomous Lacondon peoples.  It is such that you can near the site, but then park your vehicle, and hire Lacondon transportation to the site.  The natives then also have the opportunity to sell their beautiful wares in the entrance to the site.  They make incredibly beautiful jewelry from the wide variety of seeds that can be found in the rainforest.  Additionally, you can find hand carved figurines and kitchen utensils made of the local mahogany wood, called Caoba.  Given the repression they have suffered over the years, we were happy to provide economic support through our visit.

Bonampak was inhabited as early as 100 AD , and its habitation ran roughly through 600-800 AD. Surprisingly, it is believed that there was an amicable relationship between Bonampak and Yaxchilan, just 12 miles away, as the rulers at one point were brothers-in-law and joined forces in at least one battle. 

What Bonampak is perhaps most well-known for are its lintels and the murals that adorn the interior of Temple 1.  Each visitor has the opportunity to spend up to 3 minutes in each room and no more than 3 people are allowed in a room at a time.  But the wait is definitely worth it!  The site of the murals and the stories they tell are quite impressive.